Invisible Decrease for Gap Free Amigurumi
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Why You will Love the Invisible Decrease Stitch
Want to hook up smooth, even, gap-free amigurumi? The invisible decrease is about to become your new favourite stitch.
For crocheters starting out with amigurumi, those pesky holes at decrease points can be the most frustrating part. You might be tempted to go down a hook size to tighten tension. That can help a little—but it rarely fixes the whole problem because the issue is usually how a standard decrease (dc2tog / sc2tog) pulls the stitches together, especially when you’re shaping and working decreases close together. Go too small on hook size and your fabric can distort… hello, new problem.
The good news: there’s a wonderfully simple fix—the invisible decrease. It closes gaps, keeps your shaping tidy, and blends right into your rounds.
This stitch can be the key to unlocking a clean and professional looking finish; once you master it you wont be able to wait to show off your amigurumi makes.
Prefer to skim? Scroll down for a quick step by step photo guide 👇
Watch Now | Quick Tutorial Video
What is an Invisible Decrease?
An invisible decrease is a neat way to turn two stitches into one without the open “V” that standard decreases can leave. You’ll work through the front loops only (FLO) of the next two stitches, then finish as a normal double crochet (UK) / single crochet (US).
Whilst the technique was originally designed with the dc (UK)/sc (US) in mind it can also be used with stitches of different heights. However, these may not be quite as invisible as the dc/sc so they should be swatch tested before being used in a pattern.
Note. Whilst you may find the abbreviations inv-dec or I-dc2tog etc being used, as yet, there is no standardised pattern abbreviation for writing invisible decreases. If the designer has written the pattern with invisible decreases in mind they will normally mention this in either the pattern notes or special stitches.
Photo Tutorial: How to crochet an Invisible Decrease
Step One: Pick up the first front loop.
Insert your hook under the front loop only of the next stitch.
Step Two: Pick up second front loop.
Without yarning over, slide the hook under the front loop only of the following stitch. You now have two front loops on your hook.
Step Three: Draw up a loop through both front loops.
Yarn over and pull through both front loops. You’ll have two loops on your hook.
Step Four: Finish the dc (UK)/sc (US).
Yarn over, pull through both loops on the hook to complete the stitch.
When to Use
- Amigurumi shaping: snouts, heads, limbs—anywhere you want decreases to melt into the fabric.
- Dense fabrics in the round: ideal for continuous spiral rounds.
- When gaps appear with dc2tog/sc2tog: swap to invisible decreases to tidy things up.
Practice Mini Swatch (UK Terms)
You Will Need
Some spare DK yarn
A hook to match your yarn – you are aiming for a reasonably dense, non-stretch fabric.
Toy Stuffing
Tapestry Needle, Scissors, Stitch Markers (handy for tracking the first stitch in spiral rounds)
Abbreviations (UK Terms)
dc – double crochet
FLO – front loop only
I-dc2tog – invisible decrease, double crochet two together
MR – magic ring
Rnd(s) – Round(s)
st/sts – stitch/stitches
US Makers – swap dc for sc throughout
Practice Pattern
Rnd 1: Work 6dc into MR. [6]
Rnd 2: 2dc in each st. [12]
Rnd 3: (Dc in next st, 2dc in following st) x 6. [18]
Rnd 4: Dc in next st, 2dc in following st, (dc in next 2sts, 2dc in following st) x 5, dc in final st. [24]
Rnds 5-9: Dc in each st. [24, 5 Rnds]
Rnd 10: Dc in next st, I-dc2tog, (dc in next 2sts, I-dc2tog) x 5, dc in final st. [18]
Rnd 11: (Dc in next st, I-dc2tog) x 6. [12]
Stuff the ball.
Rnd 12: (I-dc2tog) x 6. [6]
Fasten off and weave the tail through the FLO of the final 6sts and pull gently to close. Secure and bury the thread inside of the ball.
Trouble Shooting and Pro Tips
Splitting the yarn? Keep your hook tip low and flat as you slide under each front loop.
Lumpy shaping line? Don’t stack all your decreases on top of each other every round. Stagger them (or use a traveling stitch marker) to avoid a visible “seam”.
Still seeing gaps? Check that you’re truly in FLO of two separate stitches (not under both loops of one stitch), and keep tension even as you pull through the two front loops.
Working tight? Breathe, relax your shoulders and let your tension ease. Your tension on the pull-through across the two FLO should be relaxed, then snug up a little on the final YO-through-two.
BLO rounds? Test whether the standard invisible decrease disrupts your ridge; if it does, try a BLO-only decrease(insert hook in back loops of next two sts instead)
Whats Next?
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